Routeburn Track

First off, Kelli and I have been so impressed by how well the kids are hiking and how much they enjoy it. So far, we’ve spent 10 days or so on three different hikes totaling just over 120km in distance (approx. 75 miles). Three of the days were in cold rainy conditions with the other days in mostly sunny and really perfect hiking weather. Eliot has turned out to be quite a good and happy little hiker. He rarely complains, save for an occasional “I’m hungry, what do we have to eat?!” and mostly just ambles along, singing, jumping across the rocks and walking like a monkey on occasion. Ainsley and Jack both carry backpacks, complete with sleeping bags, their clothing, water and their share of the food. Ainsley hikes at quite a good clip, excellent company for Kelli who prefers to keep a fast pace. Jack is usually frustrated, feeling that the hikes are too easy (although a few days have challenged him) and plotting how to find to a more difficult route. But, at the end of a long day of hiking everyone is a bit tuckered out and happy to see the next hut and dinner.

The Routeburn Track was our first Department of Conservation (DOC) hike in New Zealand, after warming up about a week earlier with the private (and bed and shower included) Banks Peninsula Track. It is one of the nine Great Walks in New Zealand, located in Mt Aspiring and Fiordland National Parks on the South Island. While not quite as well known as the Milford Track many people say that it is equally beautiful and better in some respects.

As we started out on the Routeburn on a nice sunny day we thought of Marybeth and her good friend Mary Margaret who hiked this track some 27 years ago. They both loved it and Marybeth spoke fondly of the hike, rain (that is a given) and natural beauty along the way. Marybeth made special mention of a particularly magical forest and that we would know when we were there. We sure did and made a special video at the bottom of this post.

The first day started off perfectly in sunny weather as we reacquired our hiking legs and pulled and jostled at all of the adjustments on our backpacks. This time we were carrying in all of our food and we didn’t want to run out. The kids are eating more these days and eat even more after a good days walk. The hike followed the Routeburn up the valley for about 3 hours until it reached an open area just below the falls. Mountains were all around us as we stopped by the clear river for a much needed lunch, soaking in the scene. The rest of the day included a modest climb up towards the falls and the Routeburn Falls Hut. Surely the 48 bunk hut, complete with amazing views of the valley, is quite different from the one on Marybeth’s hike. So too I’m sure is the guided walker’s hut complete with couches, wine and prepared meals. All supplies for them are helicoptered in, same for the building materials for the new and more deluxe hut under construction. It was a bit strange to be out in nature and hear a helicopter arrive and smell restaurant style breakfast cooking in the morning. Here are some pictures from that first day.

The forecast called for worsening conditions the next day, so we took advantage of the good weather and went on a second hike after settling into the hut. We climbed a ways up the trail that we would follow the next day and then diverged to reach a small summit overlooking the hut and the valley from a more prominent viewpoint. Just an hour and a half of walking or so, but as you will see below little Eliot was tuckered out. We enjoyed the views, the kids played on some of the little islands in ponds along the way and then we retreated to the hut to cook our pasta and get to bed.

The view upon awakening the next morning sent very mixed signals. Mist and clouds shrouded most of the valley with occasional sun popping out. The sun provided what ended up being completely false hope for a pleasant day of walking. We were really hoping because most of the six hour day would be in what they call sub-alpine territory. Above the tree line, but below the snow. This meant that we would be out of the trees and exposed to all of the weather elements of the day.

John the hut warden took special interest in us because of the kids and gave us some extra food (crackers and instant miso soup) that was left behind by previous hikers along with some plastic ponchos. Waterproof jackets go only so far, eventually getting saturated in heavy rain. No matter what, we were in for a wet and cold day.

We stopped at the one emergency shelter at the top of the Harris Saddle to warm up and eat our lunch out of the elements. No hopes of drying, just getting a bit warmer, eating and resting for a bit. After that we headed back out into the rain for the remaining four hours or so and the windiest part of the day. Kelli and Ainsley started at a pretty good clip and I played my “sweeper” role with the boys. The trail was really just one flowing stream of water and once we gave up hope of keeping our feet the least bit dry it was easier to move at a faster pace. I gave this up at one point when I fell in a bit while helping Eliot across one particularly raging section. The wind also picked up as expected, providing Ainsley and Kelli with a few scary moments along the edge of the trail as they held onto each other. Jack and I, with our packs as small sails, felt the wind a bit, but Eliot was immune as his figure provided very little for the wind to blow.

We trudged on towards the McKenzie hut as everyone grew a bit colder. Kelli and Ainsley were now completely out of view and Jack had a growing urgency to use the bathroom. The rain and exposure caused him to continue to hold things and it became more difficult for him to progress. About an hour out of the hut I took his pack and he labored on. Eliot, was tired and cold, but progressed well. At one point the sun came out briefly and we spotted a rainbow. It was a good sign. A bit later we finally viewed the hut off in the distance across the valley, at the end of another rainbow. That picked all of our spirits up a bit, although it was still quite a ways away. We finally started down in earnest on the switchbacks and we picked up the pace just a bit. Then, we entered the most beautiful forest and immediately recognized it as the one Marybeth had mentioned. Too bad that we really couldn’t enjoy it much as we just wanted to reach the hut.

Finally, Jack, Eliot and I arrived at the hut. Kelli was quite relieved as our arrival was a good hour and 15 minutes after theirs. They were beginning to grow a bit concerned, but not ready to send out a search party yet:-) We were greeted at the hut by two Australian families with two young children and new playmates for Jack and Eliot.

So, day 2 of hiking ended. The Harris Saddle and rain proved to be just about all everyone could handle. The kids really dug deep and persevered on a great challenge. They all felt quite a sense of accomplishment.

(Thanks GG for the waterproof camera that allowed us to take all of the photos in the rain.)

The final day brought more rain and much stronger winds. The two families that were headed in the opposite direction opted not go over the saddle based on our experience and the worsening weather. (A good choice in our opinions)

The hike out to The Divide was only a bit longer than four hours and while we were wet the trees afforded some level of protection from the weather. We enjoyed the beautiful forest a bit more leaving the hut and were awed by the number of waterfalls tumbling down the mountainside and the force of water at one spot in particular. We opted for the emergency flood bridge (rather than walking through it) at that one and unfortunately Kelli had a spill on the way down and badly jammed her thumb. Not broken, but painful nonetheless.

We arrived at the trail head around 1:30 PM for our 2 PM bus and reunited for a bit with Mary (a Quaker form the Adirondacks) who hiked the Banks Peninsula Track with us.

Here are the Day 3 pictures. We have since hiked the Greenstone Track and will post some of those pictures soon.

Here’s a quick video for Marybeth.