More Ecuador (Including Guinea Pig)
September 3, 2008 · Print This Article
Finally our blog posting with Guinea Pig!
We have now spent more than 2 weeks in Ecuador and our blog postings to date have been about specific trips or experiences, but there is so much we see each day and so much to share that this posting is going to be a bit of a hodge podge of things, roughly in chronological order.
Visit with JM’s Mother
First, our trip to the markets in Paute, Gaulaceo, and Chordoleg with JM’s cousin Wilson his wife Lourdes and their son Paul is a bit overdue. That was two Sundays ago and also the day that we had a fabulous time meeting JM’s mother and enjoyed our most delicious meal in Ecuador at her house in Gualaceo. Our camera was not yet repaired and we forgot to take our back up camera, so we have just a few pictures to share.
They picked us up at 9 AM and we spent the bulk of the day driving to these nearby towns, visiting the various markets (fruits and vegetables, food and jewelry). The most fascinating market to most of us was the food market in Gualaceo where stall after stall sold all types of Ecuadorian “comida tipica” including roasted pig that was not that unlike NC barbecue without the sauce, although the entire pig including the head are more prominently displayed.
CEDEI Spanish School
Here are some pictures of the Spanish School we attended in Cuenca for two weeks along with a picture of the kids with Cesar, one of their three “professors”.
Eating Cuy (Guinea Pig)
We finally ate cuy on our last evening in Cuenca. We did so with our new Cuenca friends, a family from Philadelphia that is staying in Cuenca for the school year. Ainsley, Jack and Eliot made fast friends with their two children, Julian and Lizze. We really enjoyed getting to know them, learn about their school plans in Cuenca and sharing some meals and cervezas. The kids really enjoyed spending time together and ours were really sad to leave Cuenca and them behind. (The inability to build friendships outside of our nuclear family is certainly a downside to our on the move approach with this trip.)
So, what to say about the Cuy? No it tastes like chicken or other remarks here. It certainly is a meal that is unique. Sure, it tasted fine and had both an interesting flavor and texture. The skin was extremely crispy and a bit thick. Everyone at the table partook in the meal, some with more vigor than others as the pictures will show. Norm (the father) probably won the most adventurous cuy eater award for his approach to the eating the head. Eliot, probably the least for his one bite of meat provided to him already on a fork. But hey, he gave it a try.
Bus ride to Ambato
Yesterday we traveled from Cuenca to Banos, via a central town in the Andes named Ambato. The bulk of the journey, 8 hours in total, took place in a bus along the Pan-American Highway. I assure you that the use of the word “highway” is made very loosely. Certain stretches were nothing but rock strewn road, no pavement in sight, and usually at the most frightening moments. We were safe, but boy those drops off were mighty steep and a long way down.
I don’t think any of us were really prepared for the trip. We did ride the bus to Otavalo for 2 hours or so, but that was really mild in comparison. One of the questions from Ainsley before the trip was if the bus would have a bathroom. We weren’t sure, but were pleasantly surprised to see that it did. Then we saw the sign on the door, “Solo Damas”! They meant it. Not even the doe eyed Eliot with a full bladder was enough to convince the “ticket taker” to unlock the door for him. It was left to first Ainsley and then Kelli to brave the Urinario on the windy stretches of the bumpiest section of the Pan American Highway. Eliot was constrained to utilizing the small empty (gasp here for GG!) Coke bottle. He did a great job. Jack and John basically avoided drinking anything and were left to hold it for approximately 6 hours before we were given the first opportunity to exit the bus and use the banos. Ugh!!
Jack’s motion sickness, for which he is prone, was mild most of the way with the exception of the unpaved stretch. Thankfully, we needed no bags of any kind. He just hung in there as best as he could.
All in all, the scenery was stunningly beautiful, the driver was a bit crazy, and the bus crowded and at times a bit smelly. Probably a bit more than we bargained for, but in the end we arrived in Banos safe and sound. Where else can a family of 5 travel for 8 hours and pay a total of $37? What did we expect? Peanuts, sodas and a bathroom?
We are now enjoying the hot baths in Banos for a few days before we head to Tena on Saturday. Sunday morning we leave for the jungle for the next 5 days. We’ll post again before we leave Banos.
Thanks for all the comments and well wishes. We miss you all!




Holy CUY!! You did it! That first bite can be a tough one.
Im sooo glad you lke Cuenca, It IS a charming easy safe place to be. You seem to hit the highlights nicely. My PC site was about an hour walk up the road from Chordeleg. I fell in love with the green mountain sides there. And yes, youre right those busrides can be challenging to say the least . So, its off to the jungle eh? Thats alot of fun! You guys are champs!! Take Care,Paul
Ugh - i think i would have not been a taker on the guinea pig BUT I want that avocado tree. Diamonds on a tree! You all look great and so happy. Wish us luck this week - hurricanes abound.
I don’t think I would have braved eating that little beast, especially the teeth Ainsley, yikes! Enjoying your adventures. School & hockey started this week. Have been to the rink 3X in 3 days.
You can’t imagine how much we miss you all! We talk about you all the time. The pictures of Ecuador so tempting. The dog with Jack looks just like Lilacy! I’ll send email soon.
Susan
I think they should start serving cuy at Duke football games - that’d be really popular.
I am sure you know that Duke lost and is now 1-1 on the year. I hear if they lose too many more Coach K is gonna suit up and play quarterback.
Boston is enjoying a long series of homestands and seems poised to take the division, according to my friends the BR fans. I continue to root for my hapless Cubbies - get em THIS year!
Tom Brady is out for the year for the Pats, leading some to think this is a wide open year in the NFL - and that Pitt might be one of the teams to take advantage. I for one am still not sold on their “new ” coach.
In others news, I am taking Maddy and 6 of her friends camping at falls lake this weekend. maybe i will cook them - you guessed it - CUY!!!!
aloha -
Rob
Ok, your blog is way better than ours, but it has some of the same pictures, imagine that! It was really great to meet all of you and we will look forward to following your journey. I am excited to just look at the blog since we finally have internet in our apartment.
You guys are going to have an amazing experience! Yet, if you get a little weary, you can always come back to Cuenca. The beach at Montanita was great and Lizzie started school today although we thought it was supposed to be Julian who started today. Communication is the hardest thing no matter where we are.
Bridget,