Cambodia - Phnom Penh and Motorbikes
December 9, 2008 · Print This Article
Three months in South America, nearly two weeks in Japan and a whirlwind three days in Hong Kong had us feeling like veteran travelers, prepared for any challenge. Well, I think that Cambodia has been a bit of a gut check for everyone.
It’s hard to know where to start.
With the still present scars of a war stricken country that will take generations to heal? With the constant movement and mayhem of motorcycles, mopeds, tuk tuks, bicycles and Toyota cars? With stories of rampant government corruption and greed? With the air hanging thick with dust and smoke, hurting your eyes and challenging your lungs?
Or…with the serenity and peacefulness of saffron robed monks walking silently by? With the history and simple splendor of buddhas from the 12th or 13th century? With the amazing friendly and welcoming nature of the Cambodian people?
We spent 3 nights in Phnom Penh, blessed with an extremely pleasant and restful place to stay. As Ainsley reported, The Fancy Guesthouse. Not really fancy, but very clean, quiet and run by the nicest family possible. Everyone felt good to be there and it was a nice place to retreat after exploring the streets of Phnom Penh. The first full day in the city brought a bout of home sickness for Ainsley. She was really missing her extended family and I think the streets of Phnom Penh had quite an impact on her. She has held my hand along the way during our travels, but here she grasped my hand and held on the whole time as we navigated the streets. Then as we toured the National Museum she shared her surprisingly vast knowledge of Buddhism and Hinduism, learned at Carolina Friends School, where in one course they studied the world’s five great religions. I learned as much from her as I did from the tour guide.
Now, after a 6 hour bus ride through the countryside of Cambodia, we are in Siem Reap. Here, Jack had his own bout of homesickness yesterday, really missing his friends Matthew and Ben. Thinking about how much he loves to play with Legos at Ben’s house. How Ben kept a lego creation of Matthew’s put aside for the entire year he and his family were away in CA. How Ben is doing the same with one of his own creations, but lamenting that it wasn’t the best one he ever built. How it will be two years before he will see Matthew, with our families’ times away from Durham happening in succession. Jack ended the day by giving Kelli an early Christmas present, purchased with his own spending money, a small buddha statue in a pretty silk pouch. He was smiling.
So, taking advantage of a comfortable place to stay here in Siem Reap we will stay a bit longer than originally planned, probably a total of 6 days, before heading off to Thailand. The American owner of our guest house is well versed in the border crossings with Thailand and will help us navigate our way there via taxi/bus/etc. Many have reported that the journey from Siem Reap to Bangkok overland was a highlight of their travels in South East Asia. We hope it will be one for us too.
Soon we will explore the temples of Angkor Wat, attend a local dance performance, ride elephants and setup more of our plans for Thailand and beyond. That’s all for now!




What a beautiful, sensitive telling of impressions of Cambodia. It seems so far away. Accounts of the kindnesses, and the children’s responses were especially sweet. Traveling the countryside to Thailand will indeed be a spectacular adventure. Of course you will ride elephants! Just when I think it can’t get more amazing, you guys rock my world. Stay safe,dear family.
wonderful post.